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73 Chevelle, getting close

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Post by Flywheel on Thu Dec 19, 2019 11:59 pm

Adding a few photos of the underside of the car.

73 Chevelle, getting close - Page 3 Pc191610
73 Chevelle, getting close - Page 3 Pc191611
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Post by Flywheel on Fri Dec 20, 2019 12:01 am

73 Chevelle, getting close - Page 3 Pc191615
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Post by Flywheel on Fri Dec 20, 2019 12:02 am

73 Chevelle, getting close - Page 3 Pc191616
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Post by thatfnthing on Fri Dec 20, 2019 11:19 am

Looks great!
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Post by g3chevy on Fri Dec 20, 2019 11:28 am

Now that's progress! Looking great!
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Post by Limey SE on Fri Dec 20, 2019 11:55 am

Really Coming Nicely

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Post by Joe73 on Fri Dec 20, 2019 12:17 pm

That exhaust looks great. What I found with it is that the pipe connection directly between the axle and gas tank, I trimmed a bit off the length off the one going over the axle. So now when the pipe comes down, goes horizontal toward the side of the car, becomes tucked up very nicely and also brings it closer to the factory flat area on the chassis as it passes under it. It makes it tucked tighter just like factory and no parts are seen when looking at it from the rear of the car.
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Post by Flywheel on Fri Dec 20, 2019 12:33 pm

Thanks guys. The pipes probably could be tucked more up in the rear end tunnel, but as it is, it's further from the tank and provides some airflow between the two.

Chassis greased last night, band clamps installed on the exhaust connection over the rear end ( I wanna be able to take it back apart if needed ). Control module swapped out. Got the power steering hose in the mail yesterday FINALLY.. I'll bolt the pump on tonight or this weekend and hopefully take it for a long drive.
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Post by Joe73 on Fri Dec 20, 2019 12:44 pm

Definitely a good idea to have a way to disconnect the exhaust.  I put a V band clamp on the muffler exit.  Heres a pic.

73 Chevelle, getting close - Page 3 V_band12
73 Chevelle, getting close - Page 3 V_band13
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Post by Flywheel on Fri Dec 20, 2019 4:39 pm

Joe,

Does that work for collectors also?
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Post by Joe73 on Fri Dec 20, 2019 5:20 pm

Sure, but I prefer the header ball and socket setup. It allows for slight misalignment. The V band clamps have lots of uses. Some have a slight step where the two halves meet, others dont. I like the step since it gets both pieces inline and then you just put the band around it. No gaskets or anything.
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Post by Flywheel on Fri Dec 20, 2019 5:21 pm

It would sure beat collector gaskets
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Post by Joe73 on Fri Dec 20, 2019 5:22 pm

The ball and socket does not use gaskets .
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Post by fasrnur on Fri Dec 20, 2019 7:11 pm

I agree with Joe. I use these for my headers. I've had them on my car for four summers now and never had them leak.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g4770/
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Post by g3chevy on Fri Dec 20, 2019 7:59 pm

I agree with Joe. The ball and socket setup works well. I have Hedman Hedders on both my 87 El Camino and my 75 Laguna. They allow for full angle adjustment to ensure a proper seal. And you don't have to worry about gaskets blowing out.
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Post by Limey SE on Fri Dec 20, 2019 8:24 pm

Jeff How do you Like them ?? I don't want to buy new headers just to get the ball and socket connectors. Which way do they install I am having a brain fart

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Post by fasrnur on Fri Dec 20, 2019 9:48 pm

You won't need to buy new headers Limey. These are sold separate and hook up to any header. Just just have to make sure you get the correct size to fit your collectors.
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Post by Limey SE on Fri Dec 20, 2019 10:02 pm

well they sure Look alot easier than the crazy Gaskets thats for sure

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Post by g3chevy on Sat Dec 21, 2019 1:07 am

Here's a pic of a ball and socket setup on some mid-length headers that was mocked up before installation. The header behind it is a typical gasket type flange.

73 Chevelle, getting close - Page 3 Hedder10
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Post by Limey SE on Sat Dec 21, 2019 3:07 pm

Right I know them G3chevy I had them When I had my Small Block build going on, Before the 454 bug bit me  LOL

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Post by g3chevy on Sat Dec 21, 2019 3:24 pm

Now those are some nice headers!
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Post by Limey SE on Sat Dec 21, 2019 4:18 pm

When I got bit by The 454 Bug I sold them to a member here Lost some money on Them BUT he was / is Happy with them So I am happy with that BUT who gets full price anymore when they sell stuff anyways LOL

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Post by Flywheel on Sat Dec 21, 2019 10:28 pm

Power steering sorted out and went for a drive. Had a vibration, and when I ran it up to 70 and let off the gas it felt like it was gonna fly apart. Exhaust was hitting the floor pan. Amazing how harsh that feels. Exhaust sorted out and another test drive, smooth driving but in the cold night air, its starving for fuel. Still needs more pump shot, guess I'll put a kit in the carb before I order a holley or a tbi kit. Not a fan of the edelbrock/carter carb. I do think you guys have nailed the timing issue, it needs more base timing and back off the high rpm timing. Not sure if I have an exhaust leak or a little pinging on the interstate... Probably exhaust, I'm paranoid about pre-ignition. Wish I had a chassis ear kit.... Control module solved the cutting out issue. Trans was a little low on fluid, topped it off and adjusted the detent, it shifts like a dream. Shifts hard enough to turn a tire over but doesnt slam second. Under light throttle the shift is a bit firmer and you feel that thump when it shifts. Trans go shift kit and high range wavy plate removed with a steel added. Later model detent with adjustment at the throttle bracket. Type F fluid. Very happy with my first auto trans build in 20 years. Stil no leaks. Idling at red lights is a blast, love that sound. Hung the drivers side door mirror, i think its a later model because the adjustment cable end is plastic, not the set screw type. The finisher on the door panel has both set screw and a groove at the top. A snap ring out of an old broken air ratchet secured it perfectly.
Took the wife on my last test drive, I got on it and scratched second gear, she said I was drving like a lunatic. Apparently its loud too. Mission accomplished.
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Post by bigredlaguna on Sun Dec 22, 2019 4:04 am

I like the Eddy carb. To me, it is the easiest one to adjust. There is tons of info on the net to fix whatever problem you might have, but the factory guide is the best and it can be printed off the website if you don't have one.

In my case, the engine didn't feel as powerful as I thought it should. A little bit of research and verification revealed that the carb I had was jetted leaner from the factory than the same carb that didn't have electric choke. It is such a difference that the two carbs plot points weren't even on the same graph at the scale they used in the manual. So jetting/rodding my 1406 to various points on the 1405 graph got my engine happy. I got it as good as it can be without using an air/fuel gauge.

The only issue I've read about is someone having trouble with the pump cup softening so bad it was useless due to perhaps too much ethanol. But that was just one account on the net I read. I personally haven't had that problem so far with my carb.

My Eddy came with the car, so I don't know if the previous owner messed with it much, but I did find that the floats were nowhere close to where they should have been when I checked it out the first time. This carb is super easy to work on in my opinion- about as easy as an old 2gc Rochester.

Nice work so far and look forward to future write ups on your project.
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Post by Flywheel on Sun Dec 22, 2019 9:08 am

Thanks bigred. What jets and metering rods did you end up with? Mine came with the car too and performed well on the old tired engine. I enjoyed building the engine and trans, the front end work etc.. Tuning not so much.. Lol. I can be impatient
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