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73 Chevelle, getting close

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Joe73
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Post by bigredlaguna Sun Dec 22, 2019 8:01 pm

I got the calibration kit for a 1405 and got it as close as I could to the factory setting. Ended up being calibration combo #11 on the 1405 graph.

In any case, download that manual from Edelbrock. It's free and explains everything about these carbs.
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Post by Flywheel Sun Dec 22, 2019 8:36 pm

Thanks, I've read over it and watched some youtube videos too. Put a kit in one years ago. Guess I'll order a calibration kit. What kind of engine do you have?
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Post by bigredlaguna Sun Dec 22, 2019 11:33 pm

Vortec headed 355 with a mild roller cam. It is only 205 @ .050

Tuning the carb got me better top end power, and a cheap stall convertor from Jegs really allowed it to jump from a stop. I also have the timing advance come in as quick as possible, like all in within the flash of the torque convertor.
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Post by Flywheel Sat Jan 11, 2020 9:45 pm

Freshened up the eddy carb today and went with set 9 from the 1405 kit with silver metering rod springs. Has a nice throttle snap now but that's all I know due to rain. Accelerator pump seal was broken in two places, fair amount of debris in the float bowls, and the butterflies weren't aligned very well.

Question for 73 chevelle Malibu owners. My brake lights doesn't light on one side when the turn signal on the same side is blinking. Is that normal? I can't think off the top of my head why it would do that either. Any input appreciated.
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Post by Limey SE Sat Jan 11, 2020 10:04 pm

maybe the Dual filament Bulb is getting ready go out ?

___________________________________________
1977 Chevelle SE x2
One Mild original
one Wild NON original
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Post by Flywheel Sat Jan 11, 2020 10:07 pm

Checked both bulbs, they are fairly new and the correct part number.
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Post by bigredlaguna Sun Jan 12, 2020 3:51 pm

Lighting issues are almost always due to poor ground connections.
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Post by Flywheel Sun Jan 12, 2020 6:13 pm

Folks, my question is, Is it normal operation?
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Post by fasrnur Sun Jan 12, 2020 8:24 pm

It is the normal indeed. The brake light will not light on the same side as the turn signal is blinking on.
The outside light is both the turn signal, and brake light on one element of the bulb. The other element is for the running/tail light.
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Post by Flywheel Sun Jan 12, 2020 8:54 pm

fasrnur wrote:It is the normal indeed. The brake light will not light on the same side as the turn signal is blinking on.
The outside light is both the turn signal, and brake light on one element of the bulb. The other element is for the running/tail light.

Thank you! That's what I suspected. Didn't think about running light being the other filament. A 3rd brake light would be a nice upgrade, but it must be bowtie shaped..
Just drove the car to dinner, disconnected vacuum advance and reset the timing before I left. Ran great. Gotta get this timing sorted out, the cam does not like factory specs (as advised earlier in this thread) . With vacuum advance connected it falls on its face when opening the throttle. The car sure is fun to drive. Got a little driveshaft vibration around 45 mph, gonna try the hose clamp balancing method. Also suspecting the brake booster leaks because the idle is about right with the idle screw backed all the way out. Hope to make the 80 mile round trip back and forth to work soon.
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Post by g3chevy / Mr Pontiac Mon Jan 13, 2020 11:15 pm

I know there has been a lot of discussions over the vacuum advance hook up on these distributors. I used ported vacuum on my 87 SS El Camino as many on the Gbody forum suggested when I pulled out all the computer controlled equipment. It ran like crap and detonated under acceleration constantly. Then after retarding the timing enough to get rid of the pinging, it had no power. Switched the distributor to manifold vacuum and adjusted the timing and it ran like a raped ape. So that may be a good place to start. And a vacuum leak from your brake booster will cause many issues so look at that as well.
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Post by Flywheel Tue Jan 14, 2020 12:07 am

Ported vac on vac advance was to reduce nox emissions on low compression smog motors.. It was on manifold. Another function vac advance is for fuel economy by way of lots of advance and part to low throttle while cruising. It also allows higher than base timing at idle to avoid high exhaust Temps. A wide range of timing is sometimes not compatible with longer duration camshafts. Combine a smog motor advance can with worn out centrifugal advance upwards of 20 degrees and there's no sweet spot of base timing to be had. I'll probably get the crane cams advance kit and limit centifugal with some spot welds as needed. I'd like to have 36 at WOT and 42 while cruising at part throttle. Probably around 26 at idle, all in on the centrifugal about 3000 rpm, and see how that performs. Timing is a great topic with many schools of thought. The bigger the bore, the longer it takes for the flame front to travel and more timing is needed. Combustion chamber design play into it too. But it's widely known SBC likes it at around 36 to 38. EGR or no EGR makes a difference too..

Anyway.. Got a good brake booster part number?
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Post by Flywheel Wed Mar 25, 2020 8:09 pm

Update: Investigating for a vacuum leak, I plugged the brake booster hose, no change. Plugged PCV, no change. I thought oh no, the intake must be leaking. Then I thought, let me check the carb linkage again. Disconnected linkage, engine died. Turned the idle screw, restarted, problem solved. So the butterflies in the carb not being aligned was the problem, but after fixing that, I didn't check the linkage again and down the rabbit hole I went.
  The engine runs strong and I couldn't be happier with it considering how many hundred dollar bills are in it, or the lack thereof. I'm guessing it's making close to 400hp. It skitches the tires shifting to second which is something I thoroughly enjoy. I finally dealt with the front bumper, installed the missing filler and tucked it about an inch. Looks good, just needs paint or chrome.
73 Chevelle, getting close - Page 4 20200210
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Post by Flywheel Wed Mar 25, 2020 8:19 pm

Oh, I almost forgot, finally got my wheels and new tires on! (photo before bumper repairs)

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Post by thatfnthing Wed Mar 25, 2020 10:08 pm

Flywheel wrote:It skitches the tires shifting to second which is something I thoroughly enjoy.

Brought a tear to my eye the first time mine did that. Very Happy

Nice work!
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Post by Joe73 Thu Mar 26, 2020 8:21 am

Nice work. Yes, chirping the tires is a fun thing.
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Post by Flywheel Mon Jun 15, 2020 2:59 pm

I thought I'd update today.. While the engine was out I cleaned up the HVAC box and installed a new Evaporator for 77 Monte. Saturday I bolted on a Sanden compressor with brackets from Vintage air for driver's side mounting and long water pump, bolted on a parallel flow condenser and an accumulator with a clutch cycle switch. This evening I'll measure for custom hoses and order them from www.coldhose.com. Lookin forward to having cold AC!
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Post by Flywheel Fri Jul 03, 2020 6:15 pm

Adding photos of the AC system. Blew 39 degrees today while out for a drive on a 94 degree day. Loving it!


Last edited by Flywheel on Fri Jul 03, 2020 6:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by Flywheel Fri Jul 03, 2020 6:26 pm

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Post by Flywheel Fri Jul 03, 2020 6:28 pm

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Post by Flywheel Fri Jul 03, 2020 6:30 pm

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Post by Flywheel Sat Jan 23, 2021 9:39 pm

Found these extensions on ebay, made for a good fix for the my stripped out regulators 73 Chevelle, getting close - Page 4 20210110
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Post by g3chevy / Mr Pontiac Sat Jan 23, 2021 10:50 pm

Now that's a cool fix. Does it make the window crank stick out too far?
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Post by Hawk03 Sat Jan 23, 2021 11:25 pm

Nice! I need some of those, my cranks keep rubbing my paint off and fall off when I shut the door.
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Post by Flywheel Sun Jan 24, 2021 5:08 am

g3chevy wrote:Now that's a cool fix. Does it make the window crank stick out too far?

It will if 0.910" isn't cut off before tacking them in place. Some measuring and a little math gets them to the right length. I also got springs to go behind the door panel that keep it snug against the back of the new handles as well as the plastic washers to go behind them. I spent mise of the day resolving squeaks and rattles in the doors, and lubing regulators, locks and latches. The solid rattle free and quiet sound of the door being closed rivals a good cam and exhaust system, for me anyway.
Last week I went to pick up some food, on the way the back light for the fuel Guage came loose. When I got to Cheddar my aftermarket window crank come off in my hand, and about a mile from the house the speedo cable started raising hell. So she's down for repairs at the moment. My dad tells me I drive it too much. He's probably right but I can't help myself.

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