73 Chevelle, getting close

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Post by bigredlaguna on Sun Dec 22, 2019 8:01 pm

I got the calibration kit for a 1405 and got it as close as I could to the factory setting. Ended up being calibration combo #11 on the 1405 graph.

In any case, download that manual from Edelbrock. It's free and explains everything about these carbs.
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Post by Flywheel on Sun Dec 22, 2019 8:36 pm

Thanks, I've read over it and watched some youtube videos too. Put a kit in one years ago. Guess I'll order a calibration kit. What kind of engine do you have?
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Post by bigredlaguna on Sun Dec 22, 2019 11:33 pm

Vortec headed 355 with a mild roller cam. It is only 205 @ .050

Tuning the carb got me better top end power, and a cheap stall convertor from Jegs really allowed it to jump from a stop. I also have the timing advance come in as quick as possible, like all in within the flash of the torque convertor.
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Post by Flywheel on Sat Jan 11, 2020 9:45 pm

Freshened up the eddy carb today and went with set 9 from the 1405 kit with silver metering rod springs. Has a nice throttle snap now but that's all I know due to rain. Accelerator pump seal was broken in two places, fair amount of debris in the float bowls, and the butterflies weren't aligned very well.

Question for 73 chevelle Malibu owners. My brake lights doesn't light on one side when the turn signal on the same side is blinking. Is that normal? I can't think off the top of my head why it would do that either. Any input appreciated.
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Post by Limey SE on Sat Jan 11, 2020 10:04 pm

maybe the Dual filament Bulb is getting ready go out ?

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Post by Flywheel on Sat Jan 11, 2020 10:07 pm

Checked both bulbs, they are fairly new and the correct part number.
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Post by bigredlaguna on Sun Jan 12, 2020 3:51 pm

Lighting issues are almost always due to poor ground connections.
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Post by Flywheel on Sun Jan 12, 2020 6:13 pm

Folks, my question is, Is it normal operation?
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Post by fasrnur on Sun Jan 12, 2020 8:24 pm

It is the normal indeed. The brake light will not light on the same side as the turn signal is blinking on.
The outside light is both the turn signal, and brake light on one element of the bulb. The other element is for the running/tail light.
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Post by Flywheel on Sun Jan 12, 2020 8:54 pm

fasrnur wrote:It is the normal indeed. The brake light will not light on the same side as the turn signal is blinking on.
The outside light is both the turn signal, and brake light on one element of the bulb. The other element is for the running/tail light.

Thank you! That's what I suspected. Didn't think about running light being the other filament. A 3rd brake light would be a nice upgrade, but it must be bowtie shaped..
Just drove the car to dinner, disconnected vacuum advance and reset the timing before I left. Ran great. Gotta get this timing sorted out, the cam does not like factory specs (as advised earlier in this thread) . With vacuum advance connected it falls on its face when opening the throttle. The car sure is fun to drive. Got a little driveshaft vibration around 45 mph, gonna try the hose clamp balancing method. Also suspecting the brake booster leaks because the idle is about right with the idle screw backed all the way out. Hope to make the 80 mile round trip back and forth to work soon.
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Post by g3chevy on Mon Jan 13, 2020 11:15 pm

I know there has been a lot of discussions over the vacuum advance hook up on these distributors. I used ported vacuum on my 87 SS El Camino as many on the Gbody forum suggested when I pulled out all the computer controlled equipment. It ran like crap and detonated under acceleration constantly. Then after retarding the timing enough to get rid of the pinging, it had no power. Switched the distributor to manifold vacuum and adjusted the timing and it ran like a raped ape. So that may be a good place to start. And a vacuum leak from your brake booster will cause many issues so look at that as well.
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Post by Flywheel on Tue Jan 14, 2020 12:07 am

Ported vac on vac advance was to reduce nox emissions on low compression smog motors.. It was on manifold. Another function vac advance is for fuel economy by way of lots of advance and part to low throttle while cruising. It also allows higher than base timing at idle to avoid high exhaust Temps. A wide range of timing is sometimes not compatible with longer duration camshafts. Combine a smog motor advance can with worn out centrifugal advance upwards of 20 degrees and there's no sweet spot of base timing to be had. I'll probably get the crane cams advance kit and limit centifugal with some spot welds as needed. I'd like to have 36 at WOT and 42 while cruising at part throttle. Probably around 26 at idle, all in on the centrifugal about 3000 rpm, and see how that performs. Timing is a great topic with many schools of thought. The bigger the bore, the longer it takes for the flame front to travel and more timing is needed. Combustion chamber design play into it too. But it's widely known SBC likes it at around 36 to 38. EGR or no EGR makes a difference too..

Anyway.. Got a good brake booster part number?
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