New 75 Monte Project

JiMi_DRiX wrote:Yeah, its sagging pretty hard. The bottom pin is sticking up out. I tried holding the door up a little with a floor jack, and knocking the pin back in, but it didn't budge.

I'm guessing that with the amount of sagging, the bottom of that pin you were tapping on has probably lifted above the outer hinge and has ovaled out the bushing and bushing mount on the inner. Chances are the striker in the jam is damaged as well.
The 1st thing you may want to do is replace the striker. They seem to be still available at many retailers. In fact, I just picked up 2 that were hanging on a floor display at the local NAPA. Install the new striker so that it is adjusted the same as the one you just removed. Don't use the door much once you've done this as the new striker will get damaged pretty quick, but it will help hold the door closer to the correct location. Next you'll need to decide if you want to remove the whole fender, or just the fenderwell. The fenderwell drops out fairly easily with the wheel off, but you still have to reach for the bolts. Removing the entire fender really exposes all the hinge bolts and makes it real easy for later adjustments. Also removes the chances of damaging the door or fender in the process. This does take some time, some patience, and in most cases - lots and lots of WD40. Remember to mark the fender shims you remove for location.
Once the fender (or fenderwell) is removed, you can remove, repair (or replace), and remount each hinge, one at a time, with the door shut.
I did mine twice. The 1st time was right after I bought the car in 86. The driver door sagged to bad for inspection. I did the fenderwell method and used pin kits, which is basically just larger bushings you put in your hinges after drilling the damaged bushing hole. It only lasted a few years. I'm not sure if this was because I didn't get the adjustment right, or if the larger bushings just inherently wear faster. The 2nd time was while the car was completely disassembled for rebuild. I just decided to replace all four then. Adjustments were real easy without fenders.

Sheesh - look at me - I wrote a book.

77ElClassic wrote:

JiMi_DRiX wrote:Yeah, its sagging pretty hard. The bottom pin is sticking up out. I tried holding the door up a little with a floor jack, and knocking the pin back in, but it didn't budge.

I'm guessing that with the amount of sagging, the bottom of that pin you were tapping on has probably lifted above the outer hinge and has ovaled out the bushing and bushing mount on the inner. Chances are the striker in the jam is damaged as well.
The 1st thing you may want to do is replace the striker. They seem to be still available at many retailers. In fact, I just picked up 2 that were hanging on a floor display at the local NAPA. Install the new striker so that it is adjusted the same as the one you just removed. Don't use the door much once you've done this as the new striker will get damaged pretty quick, but it will help hold the door closer to the correct location. Next you'll need to decide if you want to remove the whole fender, or just the fenderwell. The fenderwell drops out fairly easily with the wheel off, but you still have to reach for the bolts. Removing the entire fender really exposes all the hinge bolts and makes it real easy for later adjustments. Also removes the chances of damaging the door or fender in the process. This does take some time, some patience, and in most cases - lots and lots of WD40. Remember to mark the fender shims you remove for location.
Once the fender (or fenderwell) is removed, you can remove, repair (or replace), and remount each hinge, one at a time, with the door shut.
I did mine twice. The 1st time was right after I bought the car in 86. The driver door sagged to bad for inspection. I did the fenderwell method and used pin kits, which is basically just larger bushings you put in your hinges after drilling the damaged bushing hole. It only lasted a few years. I'm not sure if this was because I didn't get the adjustment right, or if the larger bushings just inherently wear faster. The 2nd time was while the car was completely disassembled for rebuild. I just decided to replace all four then. Adjustments were real easy without fenders.

Sheesh - look at me - I wrote a book.

No no, books are great! Especially when its something helpful! Thank you! That is a really good idea doing it with the door shut. I had always imagined I would have to do it with the door open, or completely off the car. Have you ever done it that way? I have a friend who is an amazing body man, I'm hoping he can help me out on this one. Ive never done hinges, so correct me if this is a bad idea, but I had thought I would have to support the door from the bottom with a floor jack and a piece of wood, and remove the hinges that way, one at a time, new pins, bushings, then bolt them back in. Is that possible? Or a bad idea?

You'll need a couple guys and maybe the jack/wood combo when it comes to making final adjustments. But getting the door hinges back on the car 1st is much easier using that process above.

If you are still getting that ticking noise it could be your heat riser. The little vacuum pot on the pass. side just next to the valve cover above cyl 6 controls it. Follow the shaft down from the vacuum pot and see if the valve moves. If it doesn't it's causing most of the exhaust from the passenger side thou route through the intake passages to exit on the driver side.

Had that happen on an old 77 Malibu I used to have. Drove me crazy thinking I had a spun bearing till I tracked it down.

I must say I'm quite jealous. Since i had to dispose of my 77 I've been trying to no availe to find another Monte (more for mama) (but I do love Montes) and all I find is over priced rust buckets or stuff outta my budget. Then see you come across a nice one cheap. But so is the ways of life I guess

Biomedtech wrote:If you are still getting that ticking noise it could be your heat riser. The little vacuum pot on the pass. side just next to the valve cover above cyl 6 controls it. Follow the shaft down from the vacuum pot and see if the valve moves. If it doesn't it's causing most of the exhaust from the passenger side thou route through the intake passages to exit on the driver side.

Had that happen on an old 77 Malibu I used to have. Drove me crazy thinking I had a spun bearing till I tracked it down.

I have long since forgot about the heat riser. I had so many problems.because of that damn thing on ky 76 back in high school when the car was all original. I will have to check that out. Is there a way to keep it open?

dragons_lair59 wrote:I must say I'm quite jealous. Since i had to dispose of my 77 I've been trying to no availe to find another Monte (more for mama) (but I do love Montes) and all I find is over priced rust buckets or stuff outta my budget. Then see you come across a nice one cheap. But so is the ways of life I guess

You have no idea how many beaten pos and hacked up low riders I've seen before I found this one! lol

Coat hanger

I ended up taking the whole thing off when I went to duals. But I suppose you could just tack weld it open or something similar.

Biomedtech wrote:I ended up taking the whole thing off when I went to duals. But I suppose you could just tack weld it open or something similar.

We had mine rigged open somehow, but I dont remember anymore, might've just been a tack weld. I too got rid of mine when I had the full exhaust done!

Well I finally got the tank out, it really wasnt too hard either. The only annoying part were the straps, and they were only in the way because the car isnt on a lift for them to fall straight down, but I got around them. The tank definitely has some fuel in it, but I didnt pop it open yet, it looked like rain moving in and I already had enough of the heat this afternoon! I'll probably get it open this week and then need to figure out a way to get the fuel out of it, any ideas?





i also found this under the tank..

Excellent...you found the Build Sheet! I'm going to drop mine this week. Will probably put the arse-end up on ramps and hope it gives me sufficient clearance to get those straps out of the way. I saw what I think is a bit of the Build Sheet when I was checking things out with a flashlight. When out, I'm just going to try pouring the gas out through the filler neck. What I'm wondering is whether a person should rinse out the insides with water. If so, how long will it take for that to evaporate before reinstalling. Don't want water mixed in with the gas.

Yeah if you can get some ramps, it'd help, but I didnt have much trouble. I had the rear end on jack stands. I got the floor jack with a flat piece of wood up under the tank, and got the two bolts out. I slowly let it down and wiggle the filler neck. After it was on the ground, I slid it to one side and moved the strap, and then slid the tank out from the side. Should be much easier to put back in with the gas out of it! Hopefully I can dump it out of the filler neck, I need to find something big enough to pour it into though. There is a couple gallons or so in there.

Don't use water to clean the tank...I've used this before with a buddy on his 73 Camaro.

http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/FTRK/

Today I cleaned up the tank, and popped the sending unit out. A note for anyone who needs to drain their tank, you cant do it through the filler neck. The neck goes into the tank, about a third of the way in. We took the sender out, and flipped it over to drain it. There was about two gallons, and it came out a little stinky, and red. I think that was from the fuel stabilizer, which I THINK, saved the fuel from getting all gummed up.... because the inside of this tank is SO CLEAN! I'm very relieved! So I will be ordered a sending unit tonight, and in the meantime, painting a section of the underside of the car.

Good info! Let me know where you decide to buy the sending unit. I'll be replacing mine, too, as long as I have the tank down.

x2, my gauge is fooked! I need a new sender too

I saw that Advanced Auto Parts has it online. I'm going to do a quick check, but my assumption is that its the same part, just different vendors..


EDIT** Here is what I found. Many places carry the Spectra Premium sending unit (in both 2 and 3 outlet), Rock Auto has it the cheapest at $60.99.

Rock Auto Spectra Premium Fuel Sender

I found an NOS one on fleebay for 20 last year.

1973 454 MONTE wrote:I found an NOS one on fleebay for 20 last year.

I'm sure you did! haha. I found NOS ones online, for $250! I had an aftermarket in my 73 Landau, and it worked just fine.

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Dang dude, that thing looks brand spanking new

Spectra and Dorman seem to be the common after-market suppliers of senders, tanks, etc
Summit Racing is handling those stock parts also now. I found all the parts to change the tank on the wife's Buick there.
My El Camino project has a Spectra tank, made in Canada.

Here it is, ready to get put in..........

77mali wrote:

Dang dude, that thing looks brand spanking new

It doesnt look too bad! I'm thinking that when I drop the tank in my 76, I'll just replace it, and leave it bare like this, it would look nice under the car like that. Right now mine has about 347342789 coats of black paint on it, lol.

pila wrote:Spectra and Dorman seem to be the common after-market suppliers of senders, tanks, etc
Summit Racing is handling those stock parts also now. I found all the parts to change the tank on the wife's Buick there.
My El Camino project has a Spectra tank, made in Canada.

Here it is, ready to get put in..........

yeah I found a lot of Spectra and Dorman fuel parts. Its good to know someone makes this stuff!

FYI: Autopartswarehouse.com has the Spectra Premium #FG107A (2-line) for $58.92 with free shipping on orders over $50. Rockauto was just under $62; plus about $7 shipping for me.

It sure pays to shop around !

Mcarlo77 wrote:FYI: Autopartswarehouse.com has the Spectra Premium #FG107A (2-line) for $58.92 with free shipping on orders over $50. Rockauto was just under $62; plus about $7 shipping for me.

Nice find!


So while I'm waiting on the sending unit, I'm thinking about the door pins. How hard is it to pull the driver side fender? Thats something I have never done. Isnt the hood hinge also bolted to it?